Massachusetts  Home Inspections  Massachusetts Home Inspections 
Home Inspection Massachusetts

Home
Support Our Military
Why Choose Me?
What Do I Inspect?
Purchasing A Home
Selling Your Home
Pricing & Services
Types Of Inspections
Optional Services
Areas I Serve
My Promise
Know Your Home
FAQ's
Articles Of Interest
Most Common Defects
Higher Standards
Image Gallery
Your Report
Home Maintenance
Moving Tips
Testimonials
About InterNACHI
Newsletter (Monthly)
Resources
My Partners
Request Inspection
Search
Contact Me

> Home
> Support Our Military
> Why Choose Me?
> My World Travels
> What Do I Inspect?
> Purchasing A Home
> Selling Your Home
> Prepare your home for the Sale
> Selling in a Buyers Market
> Pricing & Services
> Types Of Inspections
> Optional Services
> Testing Your Home For Drug Use
> Areas I Serve
> My Promise
> Know Your Home
> Indoor Air Quality
> Asbestos - What is it?
> Asbestos In Your Home
> Asbestos Hazards
> Asbestos - Removing it
> Carbon Monoxide Alarms
> Caring for your Home
> Caulking
> Chimneys and Flues
> Circuit breakers
> Crawl Space
> Cracked Surfaces
> Deck Maintenance
> Driveway Maintenance
> Dry Well Installation
> Electrical Safety Tips
> Foundation Maintenance
> Fuses
> GFCI receptacles
> Hazardous Materials
> Heating Appliances & Maintenance
> Upgrade Insulation In Your Home
> Lead Paint and Lead Pipes
> Mold
> Plumbing Systems
> Radon - What is it?
> Radon-Health Effects
> Radon In Your Home
> Radon Testing
> Radon Mitigation Installation
> Recalled Appliances
> Retaining Walls
> Roofs
> Roof Maintenance
> Roof Shingles
> Septic Systems
> Sink Cabinets
> Smoke Alarms & CO detectors
> Vegetation and Trees Around Your Home
> Ventilating Your Attic
> Lead in Your Drinking Water
> Water Heaters
> Water Testing
> Radon in Water
> Water Well (Private)
> Wet Basements
> Wood Boring Insects
> Termites
> Powder Post Beetles
> Carpenter Ants
> Carpenter Bees
> Electrical Problems
> Aluminum Wiring
> Upgrading Aluminum Wiring
> FPE Breakers
> Knob & Tube Wiring
> Ungrounded Outlets
> FAQ's
> Articles Of Interest
> What Really Matters
> Newer Home vs. Older Home
> Energy Saving Tips For Homeowners
> Most Common Defects
> Higher Standards
> Image Gallery
> Your Report
> Home Maintenance
> Moving Tips
> Testimonials
> About InterNACHI
> Newsletter (Monthly)
> Resources
> My Partners
> Request Inspection
> Search
> Contact Me







 Additional Links:
site map
key words service area
all links


Massachussetts Certified Home InspectionsHome Buyers
buying a home
Massachussetts Certified Home Inspections
Massachussetts Certified Home Inspections
home inspection for sellersHome Sellers
selling your home
Massachussetts Certified Home Inspections
Massachussetts Certified Home InspectionsWhy Hire Me?
Benefits of selecting Mass Certified Home Inspections
Why Choose Us?
NACHI Certified

Carpenter Ants

carpenter ant

An ant infestation is not quite as devastating as a termite infestation, but it does require careful attention to avoid structural failures that can result from their tunneling into your home. Unlike termites, ants do not eat wood for its nutritional value. They burrow into the wood to make their nest in order to breed and use the wood shavings to build partitions (walls) inside the tunnels of their nests. Most species start their nests in any moist wood that has begun to decay around the parameter of the house. They commonly nest in wood retaining walls, wet porches/decks and fascia boards, dead portions of standing trees, stumps, and logs. They attack both hardwoods and softwoods, but normally they do not cause extensive structural damage like termites do.

CARPENTER ANT DAMAGE

carpenter ant damage

 

CARPENTER ANT PREVENTION

The first step in carpenter ant control should always include mechanical modifications to the structure and environment. The object is to reduce the avenues available for carpenter ants to enter a home or structure, as well as removing possible food and water sources.

If any tree limbs are in contact with the roof, cut them back. Carpenter ants can easily drop to a structure from tree limbs as high as five feet above the roof.

Move firewood away from the house as you would for Termites.

Seal cracks along foundations, siding, windows and doors with caulk and install fine mesh screens over crawl space and attic vents.

Ants need water in addition to food and eliminating any sources of water will make an area less hospitable to carpenter ants. If necessary, fix plumbing leaks, insulate sweating pipes, reroute air conditioner drains and make sure sprinkler heads are properly adjusted.

Any wood trim (around your home) that continues to remain moist, will attract Carpenter Ants. They thrive on moist wood. Always take precautions on keeping all wood in and around your home dry at all times.

Be sure to keep your house and yard free from any sweets or grease that might distract the ants. If you start to see ant trails, place containerized baits near a suspected ant trail; put liquid bait in cracks and void areas where ants have been seen. The first sign that the bait is working is an increase in the number of ants, in the bait area.

Do not kill any ants, as they must bring the bait back to the colony where it can be effective. The entire population should decrease eventually.

Do not spray any insecticides once you have placed a bait. Doing so could make the bait ineffective or kill the worker ants that must transport the bait back to their breeding area.

 

BACK TO MAIN PAGE